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A Slice of Sunshine

July 8th, 2010 § 3

Preen (Melissa Tammerijn), Chris Benz (Coco Young), Calvin Klein (Kristy Kaurova)

Resort 2011 brought us an assortment of optimistic flavors, one of the most delectable being the chartreuse yellow that cropped up in a variety of collections. Preen and Chris Benz brought us gorgeously draped gowns with a surprising lemony twist, evoking a memorable gown from Olivier Theyskens’ Fall 2007 collection for Nina Ricci. In Francisco Costa’s deceptively simple, architectural collection for Calvin Klein, a drapey citronella-colored velvet sheath was a standout.

ADAM (Natasa Vojnovic), Roksanda Ilincik, Balenciaga (Caroline Brasch Nielsen)

ADAM kept it casual by adding a lemon slice to American sportswear, while Roksanda Ilincik rocked the neon yellow throughout her dynamic collection. Nicolas Ghesquiere continued his retro-futurist foray at Balenciaga with a Jetsons-bright airline stewardess number.

Marchesa, SUNO, Missoni (Ilvie Wittek)

Other designers chose to feature the shock of vivid neon yellow in graphic, tribal-inspired dresses. Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman continued to experiment, with delightful success, in more avant-garde fabrics, shapes and colors. Textile masters SUNO printed graffiti-like graphics on drapey fabrics. And at Missoni, the Italian masters of the zigzag knit mixed and matched black and white and neon bright to create a 60′s tribal mod moment.

A splash of vibrant chartreuse yellow offers a unique gift to its wearer. It’s a lively, buoyant party color that does not take itself too seriously. It’s not exactly pretty; it doesn’t feign glamour. It’s simply an electric hue with a sunny disposition, full of laughter and good cheer.

The color has its roots in a medieval French liqueur thought to be an elixir of long life. The original Chartreuse Elixir, composed of 130 herbs, flowers, and secret ingredients in a wine alcohol base, was developed by Carthusian monks near Paris. In 1838, the monks developed a sweeter version of the drink, colored with saffron, which they named Chartreuse Yellow. Both chartreuse green and chartreuse yellow have gone on to storied careers as colors in their own right, offering mirth and lightheartedness wherever they go.

The medieval Carthusian monks always intended for their complex and secret herbal liqueur to be used as medicine. And what better medicine than a little slice of sunshine to call your own?

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Portrait of Rebecca

June 23rd, 2010 § 0

Rebecca, June 2009

A quick watercolor sketch of an exquisitely talented friend and ally — distinctive photographer, fabulous mother, and fellow-traveler on the endless search for artistic inspiration.

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In The Flowers

June 6th, 2010 § 0

Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2010, after Klimt's 'Farm Garden'

Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2010, after Klimt's 'Farm Garden'

There’s no doubt that Christopher Kane likes to push our buttons. I love a designer who plays with contradictions, and Kane has become a master of archly walking the line between high art and cheap thrills. Like Vladimir Nabokov, whose notorious Lolita Kane tapped as inspiration for his Spring/Summer 2010 collection, the up-and-coming London designer seems to have an endless repertoire of unsettling references with which to imbue his collections. The word mash-up is entirely appropriate here-and it might be the only thing that is.  » Read the rest of this entry «

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Grasping at Gold

May 19th, 2010 § 0

Braids at Threeasfour

Braided dress (representing copper), Threeasfour Fall/Winter 2010

Brilliantly experimental designers threeASFOUR drew upon the esoteric world of alchemy as a point of inspiration for their Fall/Winter 2010 collection. The collection featured garments that twined around the body and evoked the seven metals involved in the alchemical process. Their runway performance in New York presented looks that represented lead, tin, iron, copper, mercury, silver and gold to reach a final crescendo of a dress that combined all seven metals to form something completely transformed and exalted.

Since ancient times alchemists have sought to transmute common substances, through mystical symbolic practices, into the most precious of all elements–gold. As well, our world mythologies tell us tale upon tale of the pursuit and ultimate fulfillment of similarly inconceivable goals. » Read the rest of this entry «

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We’ll Eat You Up, We Love You So!

May 2nd, 2010 § 4

Wild child in Helmut Lang and Topshop Unique

Wolf headdress and socks by Topshop Unique, shirts and leggings by Helmut Lang

Wild things ran rampant on the Fall/Winter 2010 runways, gnashing their terrible teeth and showing their terrible claws.  Wolves in particular made a striking appearance at Helmut Lang in New York and again at Topshop Unique’s woodland romp in London. I’m a sucker for wolves, as many of those closest to me can attest, so I simply had to mash up Emma Cook’s fabulously feral animal headdresses for Unique with Lang’s antithesis of the traditional wolf-howling-at-the-full-moon hippie shirt to create a true Where the Wild Things Are moment. » Read the rest of this entry «

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Lanvin in Oz

April 25th, 2010 § 0

Ozma in Lanvin, Spring/Summer 2010

Dress, Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010; nail polish, Chanel Nouvelle Vague

I was recently visiting my dear friend Jessea and she showed me her newest antiquarian treasure trove: a collection of early and first edition Oz books, with the original illustrations by John R. Neill. So transfixed was I as I breathed in that old book smell and pored over the poignant ink drawings of the Patchwork Girl and Polychrome, the daughter of the rainbow. » Read the rest of this entry «

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Still Life in Plaid and Garnet

March 24th, 2010 § 1

Marooned!  Dress designed by Naomi Alessandra Schultz

Still life in plaid and garnet. Dress designed by Naomi Alessandra Schultz.

Continuing in the deep garnet mood (this won’t last forever; Spring is here after all!), I give you this still life of a plaid-bedecked wood nymph on a rumpled maroon bed.  I endowed my dryad with a monobrow to intensify her gaze.

I designed this dress a couple of years ago and it’s still one of my favorites.  The actual dress, photographed here by Rebecca Teague, weighs a ton because there are about 20 godets on two tiers.  But all that extra fabric is worth it when I spin around and around…

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The Scarlet Letter

March 16th, 2010 § 0

Paris Fashion Week closed in a desert of beige, caramel, and taupe, but the drama found its way in through the back door.  A trickle of lavish color seeped into collections from New York to Paris.  Blood-red velvets, leather, jacquard and lace insinuated themselves across a wide swath of collections, reminding me that on some level we’re still feeling our fangs and thirsting for something dark and rich.

Altuzarra, Alexander Wang and Zac Posen

Altuzarra (Sigrid Agren), Alexander Wang (Snejana Onopka), Zac Posen (Mia Rosen)

My favorite red velvets in New York were at Altuzarra, where a bevy of gothic glamazons donned crimson gowns that looked like a collaboration between Dr. Frankenstein and Edward Scissorhands, in the best possible way.  » Read the rest of this entry «

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New York A/W ’10 Shapes: Braided, Curled, Tattooed and Laced Up

February 23rd, 2010 § 0

New York shapes: Marchesa, ThreeAsFour, Herve Leger

Marchesa (Anna Zakuslyo), ThreeAsFour (Megan Train), Herve Leger by Max Azria (Hanne Gaby Odiele)

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New York A/W ’10 Shapes: Draped, Twisted, Pleated and Gathered

February 23rd, 2010 § 0

New York shapes: Thakoon, Costello Tagliapietra and Rodarte

Thakoon (Siri Tollerod), Costello Tagliapietra (Emilia Nawarecka), Rodarte (Antonella Graef)

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